Maquereau, Chou Rouge, Panais

Maquereau, Chou Rouge, Panais

Maquereau mariné, mousse de panais à l'aneth sur un bouillon de chou rouge au fumet de poisson Chou rouge (Brassica oleracea) :...


Maquereau mariné, mousse de panais à l'aneth sur un bouillon de chou rouge au fumet de poisson

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Chou rouge (Brassica oleracea) : type de chou cabus qui est la plupart du temps de couleur pourpre. La famille des brassicacées comprend des centaines de genres botaniques, eux mêmes composés de milliers d’espèces, on y retrouve, pêle-mêle, radis, navet, rutabaga, moutarde, cresson, roquette etc. Toutes ces plantes se caractérisent par la présence d’une fleur à quatre pétales disposées en forme de croix.
Le terme « chou » est apparu dans la langue française au XIIe siècle. Le nom latin de l'espèce Brassica serait dérivé d'un mot celte, bresic, qui voulait justement dire « chou », alors que oleracea veut dire potager. Un Brassica oleracea est un chou du potager.

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Les types de choux que l'on consomme habituellement en Occident viennent tous d'un ancêtre sauvage dont certains font remonter sa domestication à 2 000 ans dans les pays de l'est du bassin méditerranéen ; d'autres pensent qu'il y aurait eu un ancêtre beaucoup plus ancien, aujourd'hui disparu, qui était déjà cultivé il y a 8 000 ans sur les côtes du nord de l'Europe.
Au fil des siècles, Brassica oleracea a donné naissance à des sous-espèces présentant des caractéristiques extrêmement diverses selon qu'on a voulu développer : les feuilles (borécole, chou vert ou chou cavalier, chou à grosses côtes), les feuilles formant la pomme (chou de Milan ou chou de Savoie, chou blanc, chou rouge, choux de Bruxelles), les fleurs (brocoli, chou-fleur) ou la tige (chou-rave).
Quant au chou rouge, la couleur de ses feuilles varie selon l'acidité du sol en raison des propriétés acido-basiques liées aux molécules d'anthocyanes qu'il possède comme d'autre fruits et légumes (évoqué dans ma recette de cocktail Dynamic diamond). Il sera donc plus rouge lorsqu'il est cultivé sur des sols acides, tandis que sur des terres plus basiques, le chou rouge est parfois bleuté.
Pour moi cette propriété me servira à la réalisation d'un bouillon bleu acier au fumet de poisson. En effet, cuisiné, le chou rouge tourne naturellement au bleu mais si vous souhaitez le garder rouge ou violet vif, arrosez-le de vinaigre ou cuisez-le avec des fruits au jus acide.

Saison du chou rouge : Septembre à Février mais on peut le retrouver tout au long de l'année.

Recette de couleur bleu acier librement inspiré d'un plat du chef Peter Goossens

Maquereau mariné, mousse de panais à l'aneth sur un bouillon de chou rouge au fumet de poisson
Ingrédients pour 2 personnes :

- Maquereau mariné
50g de sel
2 filets de maquereau (de 300g-400g environ chacun)
graine de coriandre
1 citron vert

- Dressing maquereau
4 c. à soupe d'huile d'olive
2 c. à soupe de jus de citron vert
1 c. à soupe de soja

- Bouillon de chou rouge au fumet
10 cl fumet de poisson
1/4 chou rouge en fine tranche
50 cl d'eau
1 pincée de bicarbonate de soude

- Mousse de panais
1 gros panais (environ 300g)
20 cl crème
20 cl lait
5 g beurre

- Décoration
Aneth (pluches)
Graines de coriandre

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Maquereau mariné : débarrasser les filets de maquereau des arêtes et éliminer la membrane transparente (ou demander au poissonnier de le faire). Mélanger le sel, le sucre, le zeste râpé du citron vert et les graines de coriandre finement écrasées. Recouvrer le côté chair du maquereau de ce mélange et faites mariner pendant 10 minutes. Au bout de 10 minutes, rincer les filets et tamponner-les pour les sécher. À présent, découper selon la forme souhaitée, et réserver.

Mousse de panais : peler et couper le panais rondelle d'un à deux centimètre. Mettre dans une casserole et couvrir d'un bouillon de légume. Cuire une vingtaine de minute a feu moyen, vérifier la cuisson avec la pointe de votre couteau (comme une carotte). Passer à la passoire et remettre le panais dans la casserole hors du feu. Ajouter 5 grammes de beurre et écraser le panais avec un presse purée. Verser 20 centilitres de lait, puis 20 centilitres de crème et un peu d'aneth dans une petite casserole faites bouillir pis laisser infuser 20 minutes. Incorporer le lait et la crème au panais petit à petit, saler, poivre et remettre 2 minutes sur le feu, servir chaud.

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Bouillon de chou rouge au fumet de poisson : Faire bouillir un quart de chou rouge avec de l'eau et 10 centilitres de fumet de poisson, laisser refroidir un peu et ajouter une pincée de bicarbonate de soude, réserver le bouillon bleu.

Dressing du poisson : mélanger 4 cuillères à soupe d'huile d'olive, 2 cuillères à soupe de jus de citron vert, 1 cuillère à soupe de sauce soja, rafraîchir avec quelques zestes de citron vert et versez sur les filets de maquereau avec un tour de poivre mignonnette.

Finition et dressage : dans une assiette creuse, déposer deux ou trois cuillères à soupe de bouillon de chou rouge au fumet de poisson, les morceaux tranchés d'un filet de maquereau, et enfin, deux trois points de mousse de panais sur lesquels vous déposerez des pluches d'aneth et de graines de coriandre moulues.

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COMMENTS

  1. Cédric

    avril 21

    C'est malin, j'ai faim maintenant 😉
    Merci pour la recette, merci pour ces beaux clichés !

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